Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Couchsurfing & canyons

My time in Esteli has mostly involved me being lame. Except for a few cool firsts I can cross off my bucket list. The first is that I couchsurfed for the first time here in Esteli.

Those unfamiliar with CouchSurfing can check it out here www.couchsurfing.org . Here you will find people willing to hand out a couch or bed for travelers, and travelers can find beds in places all over the world. At it’s best, it is an exchange of cultures, perceptions, opinions, and meet likeminded individuals. It is a way you can go to places and see the world and see the lives of locals or expats.

I feel fortunate that I had a positive first experience. I met my host in Leon and we ended up having a six hour conversation about life in Nicaragua, the good and the bad, our own lives, what inspired us to travel and experience new cultures, and just life in general. We talked about couchsurfing, the good and the bad too. It was one of those magical evenings where I felt really privileged to be there.

I ended up staying with my host for three nights. I enjoyed my time there and I got some well needed rest. I played with Kiya and Phoolan, my hosts dogs. I got annoyed when her three cats decided that whatever I was eating was the most important thing in the world. These moments those cats were shown no mercy. I take my food very seriously. I also enjoyed the guinea pigs and chickens. What I didn’t enjoy was the construction work outside and all around my room that commenced at 7:00am.

My host was also super busy, trying to make a living. So I made the decision to leave and try a hostel out. I headed to Hospedaje Luna to meet some fellow travelers and I heard the cafe which is part of the hospedaje is great. So off I went.

One of the things I have done since staying at this hospedaje was visit the Somoto canyon. I found myself up and on a bus by 7:33am and headed to Somoto. My tour guide was Franklin, who arrived at the bus station looking every bit the part of the suave Latin American. With a popped collar.

What I appreciated the most though about Franklin was that he wasn’t all that chatty. He didn’t feel the need to talk a lot, and considering how tired I was this ended up working out just fine. We did discuss things like family, religion, my relationship status. This also happened to be the first time I lied about having a boyfriend. While I am usually an advocate of honesty is the best policy and 99.99% of the time that is true, I got really annoyed of people trying to “put the moves” on me after they found out I was single.

Plus, it turned out that I had a canyon basically to myself. It was me, these ugly water trek shoes, and Franklin. At first we followed a mother and son walking home, in which they had to cross the Canyon. I have no idea how they’d do that during the rainy season when everything was 40 feet higher.

But the area of the Somoto Canyon reminded me of the Prairies back home. Now that Nicaragua is four months into the dry season everything here resembles the grasslands back home and the foothills near the Rockies. Even the smell of the dry soil reminded me of home. Even though during the rainy season this area is lush and green, right now it looks like Mother Nature told them to fend for themselves for six months while she took a nap.


But the canyon itself is mighty impressive. Apparently it is fed by three rivers, the most prominent being Rio Coco. Trying to go through the giant rocks and not trip and fall into them was quite the task. All in all though it was a totally worthwhile experience. We walked through the winding water, sticking mainly to the rocks for the first third of the journey. The middle portion was a combination of jumping into water and out again. The last bit was almost entirely swimming to get to the other side of the canyon.


It was so peaceful in this canyon. I could sit down and listen as the water rushed by on some important mission. Swimming while surrounded by 80 foot high cliffs and seeing clouds amble by. It was magical. It was tranquil. It was perfect.


When I finally made it to the other side of the canyon, there was a man waiting with a boat. We took a 5 minute boat ride to get to the other part of the river. From there it was a thirty minute walk on the banks of the river, passing cows, construction workers, and children on their way home from school. Even a toddler holding a comb who got flustered when I waved to her and she threw it behind her. I ran to pass it too her and I was given a sweet smile and “gracias” for my efforts.

We passed Franklin’s house where his little nephew came running onto the road crying. I asked what happened and he showed me some scratches on his face. He was so cute standing their in an Elmo t-shirt so sad about this new addition to his face. I tried to cheer him up, but he was too far gone into pain and misery. Only Franklin walking hand in hand with him was enough to calm him down.

Once back at the hostel, I was given my vegetarian meal which I scarfed down after the days journey. I talked with a couple from the Netherlands and a man from the Czech Republic who was sticking to rural areas. Kudos to him! We talked about our travels, where we were going, where we’ve been, and back home. But before long it was time for me to get back to Esteli.



The boys waited with me, and flirted shamelessly, while watching taxi’s full pass by going to and from the border with Honduras (a mere three kilometres away). Finally I managed to catch one which would take me back to Somoto...or so I thought. I did end up back at the bus station and found myself on the bus back to Esteli. I promptly fell asleep and ended up back in Esteli somehow.

Other highlights of the day included seeing three BMX guys showing off their tricks near the school in Somoto. The crowd was completely enthralled. As were 99% of the people on our bus. Or the little girl on the bus to the Somoto Canyon who stared at me intensely and would not respond to my questions of her name, age, or even return a greeting. Thanks, jerk!

All in all it was one of those quintessential days that everything seems to go smoothly, and somehow you are reminded that you are a very lucky person to be doing all this.

My water trekking/ugly shoes


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